Living The Dream

from my very first surf trip, i pondered the thought of having my own little surf camp, in my own little piece of paradise. i think anyone who’s been on vacation anywhere, for any reason, has pondered the same. my dream came true in a little town called Krui, in south sumatra, Indonesia.

wow, that’d be amazing to live my life on a perpetual surf trip, and people pay me to stay there, because they’ve felt inspired to make new memories and get good waves.

all those little slices of heaven that you visit in your dreams, where life moves at a slower pace, the people are always smiling, and all you have to do is enjoy it.

yes, please, sign me up


the 3 years prior to becoming a surf camp builder slash owner, i had no real home, was living out of a surfboard bag, and traveling on a budget. the idea had been making it’s rounds in my head forever, but no place clicked. i reckon it’s a lot like dating. you just know when it’s a good fit… when it’s the right time… the right place.

yes, yes, this will be amazing

everyone asks lots of questions, just like i did (and still do) about how to do something like this.

did you hire someone with a bulldozer to come in, clear, & level the land for you? no, i hired several people with machetes to cut it down. then i hired a guy with a truck & several guys with shovels to dig dirt out of a hillside, put it in the truck (that always showed up on the verge of popping a wheelie), and dump it in the shallow spots of mine.

where did you get an architect? i drew the building plans myself, on a piece of cardboard with a Smurf ruler.

oh, so you know how to build? no, i’ve only assembled Ikea furniture.

obviously you spoke the language before you started this? no. not a word. even this far in, i can’t tell you the days of the week -not like they matter anyway- but i can take you on a detailed tour of the local hardware store. there are even a few things i don’t know the names of in english, but do know in indonesian. most importantly, i’m now stellar at charades.

i’ve gotten 3 buildings up and i get to surf all of the time, but the best part is seeing people get that look that only a good surf trip gives you. that lazy, content smile… that glow that’s more than a sunburn, the one that comes from your soul…

yes, yes, this is living the dream. though i did learn that living the dream is not for the faint of heart.